Orkney Again - August 07

In the few days before my week diving off Valkyrie I retraced my steps and returned to many of the places that I had visited last year such as Wee Fea which was an operations centre on Hoy during the war. The place fascinates me and I love wandering through the deserted rooms imagining how it must have buzzed with energy and activity during the war. Finding the skull of a sheep laying forlornly in the middle of the main room was a little sad especially as its white bones had been scattered like confetti around the carpet of sheep excrement that lay covering the floor.

Leaving Wee Fea I set out to explore more of Hoy which is much more hilly and rugged than any of the other Orkney Islands. This time I had bought the car over to the island and having previously visited the museum at Lyness during several surface intervals last year I travelled north towards the RSPB reserve at Rathwick. Not having time to do the walk out to the Old Man of Hoy I contented myself with a stroll down to the beach here. This is strewn with the most amazing boulders and stones smoothed and rounded by the constant tumbling and grinding they receive in the surf until they are are finally given up by the sea and lie beached on the shore.

It certainly was a lovely place with its towering cliffs and abundant grassland areas providing homes and hiding places for a vast variety of birds.I also spent a wild and windy afternoon out at Hoxa visiting the gun batteries. This was another important site during the war. Due to its position it provided a fantastic view point for guarding and watching the main entry to the flow from Pentland Firth.

The remains of the gun batteries from both the first and second world wars were placed here and judging by the size of the them they were a fair size.

Many rows of concrete plinths,  (on which the accommodation blocks were placed), have been left indicating that this was a posting for quite a number of troops.
All too soon my few days were over and it was time to turn my thoughts to diving and meeting up with the group on Valkyrie. This was yet another YD gig, with its destination the Northern Isles of Orkney. Valkyrie is the only boat in the UK owned and crewed by females which makes them pretty unique. Gradually everyone arrived with the final member of the group not joining us until very late in the evening which prevented us leaving that day. However, we set off the next day to jouney round to Kirkwall doing a couple of dives on the way. We did make it up to Stronsay which is a delightful little island and I had a lovely walk along the shore near the harbour and was fascinated to see the amount of car parts that had been tossed up on the beach. These included engine blocks and whole car chassis!

You really began to get an idea of what it might be like to live on such a tiny island when you visit the shop and note the opening times for the bank.

Most people have several jobs as there is just not enough work or the size population to make full time jobs viable for people like paramedics, postmen etc.

Returning to Kirkwall we did a final dive on the Cotavia which was a pretty impressive wreck. During the night Hazel had tried to take the boat back round to Stromness however, conditions made her turn back and it was very weird to wake up back in Kirkwall when you are expecting Stromness. She suggested that we all decamp and have the day to ourselves making our way back to Stromness via the road as she expected a very rocky journey by sea. Most of us opted for this and we met up again later in the day back on board Valkyrie for an indulgent evening of feasting and supping upon some goodies that Hazel provided to try and make up for what had unfortunatley been in some ways a rather disappointing trip.
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Northern Isles on Valkyrie

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